Blog by Kelly:

I’ve always loved travel and, now that I’m empty nested, I’m fully embracing travel as my work schedule allows. My philosophy is to travel thrifty, travel light, travel often, and keep my itinerary flexible. And, I have a thing for places that are hard to reach. While I don’t seek them out, they find me. I typically spend 1-3 nights per city to minimize backtracking and to keep transportation efficient. While this approach isn’t for everyone, it’s a timesaver with one small bag. 

I begin with an overall plan – arrival/departure cities and general route – and usually book my first 2 nights ahead and, for the rest of the trip, often book the day before. This way, I’m flexible to stay an extra day at an extra cool place or add in a new stop along the way. Location matters! I’ll take a small room, shared bath, and six flights of stairs for a prime location at a good price.

CROATIA (with suggested side trips to Bosnia and Herzegovina)

For a first time traveler to Croatia, deciding which cities to visit, how long to stay, the route, and transportation (rental car, ferry, plane, or bus) can seem overwhelming. The good news is that, in this beautiful country with 1,777 km of Adriatic coastline, charming villages, modern cities, gorgeous national parks, and a truffle museum, they are all good choices.  

While a car isn’t needed in Dubrovnik, Korcula, Split, or Zagreb, it is helpful getting to Plitvice Lakes National Park, exploring Istria, and side trips to Mostar, Trebenje, and Sarajevo. Along the coastline, driving and ferries are both good options. Note that in the off/shoulder seasons, ferry routes are limited. And, with narrow roads, parking in an old town can be a hassle. For more travel details, Rick Steves is my go to guidebook/audio guide for Croatia.

Dubrovnik, 2-3 days 

Guest house Dubrovnik

Whether by air, rental car, ferry, or bus, getting to Dubrovnik takes some effort, so stay a few days and sleep in the Old Town. My favorite Sobe (guest house) is Villa Ragusa near the Ploce Gate. I book one of the two singles with a shared bath. The owner Pero is a thoughtful and lovely host. You can’t beat the location, price, and easy access for a morning stroll just out the Ploce Gate for a value-priced coffee and spinach burek. 

Dubrovnik Excursions 

My favorite things to see and do in Dubrovnik are the City Walls, Mount Srd at sunset, Lokrum Island, the Memorial Room to the Defenders of Dubrovnik which honors those who lost their lives in the early 1990s defending this beautiful city, kayaking, wandering the city at night when the crowds dissipate, and refilling my bottle with fresh, clean water at the Onofrio Fountain.

Dubrovnik Croatia City Walls

The City Walls were built in the 10th century and offer splendid views of the City, the Adriatic, and Lokrum Island. The walk is just over a mile and, in addition to incredible views, you can pop into museums, galleries, and restaurants along the way. The Dubrovnik Card includes the City Walls and several museums and is a great value, especially if you have 2 or more days. It allows you to wander into these lesser-known museums and make some cool discoveries. It is a bit of a treasure hunt to find the entrances so that adds to the adventure. You break even on the Card by visiting the Walls and just a few museums. Allow at least 2 hours for the Walls, plus museum time, and try to go early or late to avoid tourist crowds.